I'll continue this post later, but I'll keep it simple for you.
When you start out, these are the basic guidelines:
1.
Play by tile efficiency. (For more on tile efficiency:
http://www.osamuko.com/category/theory/ (two more posts on tile efficiency will be published on the 8th-9th and 13th-14th so look forward to it. I already translated them, you just have to wait for the system to auto-post them)
2.
When someone reaches (or has a pon on the dora, double east, or other similar situations, but MAINLY when someone reaches)
only deal safe tiles. (more on safe tiles:
http://www.osamuko.com/2009/02/18/umaik ... -and-suji/ and
http://www.osamuko.com/2009/02/23/defen ... -dama-ten/)
3.
Learn situational play (point situation, seat situation, table situation) and theory (there's theory on many things that deppend on your hand and point situation, so I add this as an additional point under "situational play."). Situational play... this one you will learn little by little, as you play. But basically, if you want to know what it is about, for example: if you are first on the last round, and you got to ready with a peace (pinfu) hand, you do not reach, because you will win just by having someone else discard your winner even if you don't reach. Or, if you're last, don't assemble a 1000 points hand in the last round. Some of these things are obvious, but some others aren't that obvious, and some others will even change deppending on your style (when you are good enough at situational play, you may develop some sort of 'style,' which will usually be the default tie-breaker when you are confronted with two choices of seemingly equal value (to defend, or to go ahead with the hand? reach or not reach? For more on that go here:
http://reachmahjong.com/en/2010/03/konn ... -11-style/ Whenever you are at a crossroads, you must ask yourself. Reach or not reach? Kanchan with dora or ryanmen without dora? Kokushi or hon rou tou? Most answers to these issues of "judgement" correspond to situational play (/theory).
It all really breaks down to 1 and 2, but the more you learn about 3, the more flexible you will be able to be about 1 and 2 (when you have enough knowledge of 3, you might find situations where you want to ignore a riichi, or deal "semi" safe tiles, or cases where you must leave tile efficiency aside and assemble a low probability hand, letting a winning tile slip, or dig further into setting traps with your discards by playing anti-efficiency), and by being able to do such judgements and having these many tricks up your sleeve (such as techniques for calling tiles, arranging your hand, and other misc), you will increase your versatility as a player and be able to play diminishing the misses and increasing your point profit, leading to an increase in your average placing.
Basically, 1 and 2 are necessary not to suck. And the more you learn about 3, the better player you become.
This is what you want to think when starting out, in my humble opinion.
There isn't a big deal of English theory out there, so I suggest you get someone who knows Japanese to teach you a little. It's not hard to learn how to read "Mahjapanese."
Something you should try out is WWYD quizes, and pay attention to the correct answer's reasoning.
Try Tom Sloper's page, Sloperama
http://www.sloperama.com/mjfaq.html and you will find a lot of material on many forms of mahjong.
--
As for training, I have these exercises. Probably someone thought of them before, so I won't take credit for anything, but I find these to be effective:
Play a hanchan without furiten. This will allow you to get a little insight on "setting traps" and to pay more attention to discard reading rather than just seeing "what tiles are plainly discarded."
Play a hanchan with all hands visible. This will help you get some insight in "learning to playing as if you could see your opponent's hand" (because you are going to be seeing it), discard reading and situational play.
Play a hanchan without open hands. This will help you see the importance of a closed hand and tile efficiency, and how "pointless" some pungs and chows are. Also, the pros and cons of riichi will become evident.
And also, this is optional, but if you happen to have extra time, try a "No open hands, no riichi" hanchan. This will help you with hand building (yaku planning) and trying to "detect" tenpai by only looking at discards.
(Of course, do all these with AWARENESS. There's no merit if all you do is pick up and discard tiles. Try to understand the reasoning behind every move. For example, if in the second exercise you can see a guy's wait when he reaches, don't just go like "okay, he's waiting on 4-7 so I'll just dodge those tiles...," no, rather than that, think about -why- he is waiting on 4-7, and what would you have done if you couldn't see his hand?)